View through the front arch of Tantur Ecumenical Institute, Jerusalem. Photo: Fr Colin McLean
The Tantur Ecumenical Institute was envisioned by Pope Paul VI in the 1960s following his historic meeting and embrace with Orthodox Patriarch Athenagoras in Jerusalem in 1964. Opened in 1972, the Institute promotes Christian unity, biblical and theological study, and interfaith dialogue.
Tantur offers both one-month and three-month programs. I was fortunate to participate in the three-month program before the recent wars in the region. During my time there, I sent home several updates and photographs reflecting on the places I visited, the people I met and my personal experiences. These reflections are not intended as political commentary, but simply as a record of what I encountered during my time in the Holy Land.
My journey to Tantur from Tel Aviv airport took me through mostly barren terrain, where the white Jerusalem stone and sandstone immediately stood out. Tantur itself is built from this distinctive stone. It was quite a feeling to realise: I am now in the “Holy Land”!
My first venture outside the Institute was a walk to Bethlehem with a fellow Australian, a Good Samaritan Sister who was one of the 18 participants in our course. Walking from Tantur to Bethlehem meant passing through the Separation Wall between Israel and the West Bank.
The landscape around Jerusalem is full of contrasts. Some areas are irrigated and forested, while from the hills one can look across towards the Judean wilderness and desert. Looking over that landscape, it was easy to imagine Jesus and his disciples walking through this country proclaiming the message of the Kingdom of God.
One particularly memorable experience came during a group visit to Bethlehem, when we met Palestinians living and working in a refugee camp on the outskirts of the city. It was difficult not to think of the Holy Family and their own journey as refugees to Egypt so long ago.
At a cultural centre in the camp, a teacher told us about a Christmas Nativity play performed by some of the children. In their version, the Three Wise Men could not reach the stable to see Jesus because they found themselves on the other side of the Separation Wall. After discussing what they could do, the children playing the Wise Men mimed digging a tunnel underneath it! It was a simple but powerful example of children interpreting the Christmas story through the reality surrounding them.
Our classes at Tantur soon began, with presentations from both Israeli Jewish and Palestinian speakers. Most were extremely interesting, although I must admit a couple had some of us dozing a little!
We also ventured into Jerusalem’s historic Old City and made a quick visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Inside we encountered a cacophony of sights and sounds, with pilgrims and visitors from many nations. I had expected quiet and space for reflection on some of the principal mysteries of our faith, but the reality was quite different. I hoped to return later when it might be a little quieter.
Biblical and historical excursions formed an important part of the Tantur experience. One took us to Herodion, the fortress and palace complex associated with King Herod the Great. From Tantur, you can even see its distinctive man-made hill in the distance.
After we crossed into the West Bank, our bus parked at the base, and we began walking up the hill. Herodion was constructed during the reign of Herod the Great, whose ambitious building projects left their mark throughout the region.
For me, however, the history briefly became secondary to the climb! As someone terrified of heights, the higher and steeper we went, the more uncomfortable I became. I found myself grabbing secure rocks beside me and looking only ahead.
Reaching the top was a tremendous relief. Once there, I could finally appreciate the extraordinary 360-degree view of the surrounding landscape and the remains of Herod’s palace.
Then came the descent. We were told we could go down through an ancient cistern tunnel inside the hill. Unlike heights, I have no problem with dark and confined spaces, so I found the descent quite exciting. Later I discovered that some members of our group had chosen to walk back down the outside rather than face the dark tunnel.
So, we all have our phobias!
A 360-degree view of the surrounding landscape and the remains of Herod’s palace. Photo: Fr Colin McLean
One of our guides offered a memorable observation: “If Herod built it, Jesus saw it.” Standing amid these landscapes and ruins brought home the closeness of biblical history in a way that books cannot quite reproduce.
The three-month program at Tantur gave us not only structured study and guided excursions, but also time to return to places that particularly affected us and to experience something of the people, faiths, landscapes and complexities of the Holy Land.
For me, that combination of study, encounter and personal experience made Tantur a journey I will not easily forget.
Fr Colin McLean currently lives at St Columban’s, Essendon.
Related links
- Read more from the current Columban eBulletin
